Even with perfect measurements it’s impossible to get to that line straight unless the frame is perfectly square. This not only completely solves that issue but also saves a ton of time not having to measure and cut them one by one.
Also the lumber I picked turned out to be 10 cm longer than the deck and I even picked the exact right amount. By the time I was done I only had a basket of <10 cm off-cuts.
I stand by what I was taught by my grandfather and my father.
Only you’ll care if it is off, but if someone comes to the house and says it is wrong, hand them a saw and say get to work.
At first glance I thought this was an areal view of a large concert or something with the gravel being people.
No I see it something about how the porch is angled makes it seem like something really big
Sir are you high?
Of course not, Officer!
dude i’m not driving a forklift and you’re not my certification examiner.
I’ve been a professional before. Where it mattered we cut the ends off in place that same way.
What tool to cut them off without damaging surroundings? Just a circular saw?
Circular saw with the blade set such that it just barely will cut all the way through.
Shouldn’t you set it about 1/4” below whatever you’re cutting?
Depends but i would say quarter is way too much. Generally dimensioned lumber is close enough that right on is just fine but rough cut needs more tolerance. My habit was often a 32 less and the rest breaks off with no danger to the blade.
Track saw or a circular saw
Do you not need to treat the exposed ends several times then though? I gave up on a project like this because it just felt like it would rot again quickly.
Treated wood should be treated through and so no need to treat the ends
The treatment generally goes into the wood only few centimeters so in some cases the cut ends do need to be treated. I’ve replaced pieces of deck framing in the past that had rotted out because this wasn’t taken into consideration.
It won’t rot as long as it gets to dry out once in a while.
I think that’s what the problem with the existing deck was lol. Also no-one uses hardwood cos it costs so much more.
Even softwood seems so expensive. Plywood is probably the extent of my budget for a lot of things. Not sure how well it lasts outside or how treatable it is though so just haven’t really made much.
Plywood had gotten crazy expensive too. Even more so than pine and hardwood.
Probably, but its cheaper than solid wood
I am also curious about this, it looks like a place where water will collect in between. At least where I live, maybe this person lives in a dryer climate?
This is under a roof so it doesn’t get wet regularly. However even if it did that would be okay due to the NTR-AB grade treatment on the wood. It resists water for as long as it gets to dry out in between. For framing I use NTR-A grade which can withstand being constantly wet but there the cut ends needs to be treated or else that’s where the water gets in and it’ll rot from the inside out since pressure treatment is only on the surface.
I can’t say for sure from pictures but my guess is everything is safe for in water use and so no worry. It doesn’t take much to drain the water out
Love figuring stuff out like this. Wrecking your brain and running into problems everywhere. And then you get to it. The simple, elegant, efficient solution. “Oh, that’s how they do it”
Wrecking
Wracking?
Well to be fair I think I’ve wrecked my brain a few times thinking about things too much.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eggcorn confirmed.
Oh my, those last two are news to me. There was actually a Tv series called To The Manor Born, so I’m blaming that.
Now, about that pint of Guinness.
It looks great.
Good job, man! Thats professional work, genuinely the way its supposed to be done.
Only if he treated the ends before the fascia board went on 😬
Not really a problem. The wood will dry out regularly, so it won’t rot.
Hindsight is MY superpower.
That’s how you do it.
