Not really, could maybe camouflage it in with the brake/shifter cables, but not truly hide it anywhere. Also, when I say the Bosch cable is short, it’s like 3 or 4 inches long, at that length I dont think I could get the joint anywhere good to hide.
It appears that either this or making my own cable are my options. Although, the person who wants it really does not want a “janky” looking cable. Im trying to figure this out as a favor to the local bike shop to pacify a problematic customer of theirs.
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The C end is correct, the B end physically fits, but I can’t get anything to happen. The port on the Ebike is Micro A for some insane reason.
Edit: Bottom left of this picture.
I wonder if I could make a micro B appear as an A if I could find what pins to short…
Heat shrink is the way I would go, but man, Im not sure how well that’s going to work with the end coming off the short cable being a 90° connector.
Holy shit, it actually fits, no clue if the connection is good, I’ll need to find an adapter to go with my test cord.
Edit: Well, with the A to C adapter I have I cant get the cord to make a connection.
That was my suggestion too, single cable would be preferred.
That’s the insane part, I actually mean A.
Add fuel until it stops going, add engines until it starts exploding, then add struts until it stops exploding. Repeat to orbit.
Unfortunately the only place I was able to find them was Amazon.
I found a bulkhead fitting that would fit through the barrel bung on mine. There is a string trick to thread it into place; but I just kinda shook the barrel a bit and it fell into place.
I bet that some where there’s an electric mill that gets most of it’s power from a local wind farm sometimes.
Discovered a couple days ago that the rear brake on my nice road bike was dragging badly. Like, give the wheel a spin and it would stop in half a turn bad. No clue how I never noticed that in the not quite a year I’ve had the thing.
The insane part is that for a similar effort, my nice bike with a dragging brake still resulted in something like a 2 or 3 mph higher average speed than the still pretty nice gravel bike. I haven’t had a chance to ride it since fixing the brake so I’m curious how it does now.
Although, that also would explain some downhill coasting speed weirdness I noticed on group rides.
Half-assed Google search suggests he’s worth somewhere between 20 and 70 million.
Astronomer as a company is worth around a billion.
Just a note on how nozzles are made, they are machined brass usually. They can wear pretty significantly over their lifespan too, especially if you run harsh materials (glow in the dark is harsh enough that a brass nozzle might not last a single print).
There are hardened steel nozzles, but even those are a wear item, they just wear slowly. As I said somewhere else, it’s like trying to chase down a ransom note by analyzing the shape of the lead of a pencil that may have been used to write it. Just using it changes the properties.
Both the ones for adjustment, and the operator.
You’d also have to use the same slicer settings, similar room conditions, make sure that you have the same filament roll (assuming it’s an FDM printer), make sure that nothing hardware wise was tweaked (eg. fixing belt tension), make sure nothing software wise was tweaked (it’s nuts how much difference temp can make), make sure nothing firmware wise was tweaked, and the nozzle cant have had too many prints between the suspicious one and now (or like half of a glow in the dark or carbon fiber filled print).
Edit: and same print orientation, just turning the part direction in the slicer causes different artifacts, in extreme cases I’ve seen a part facing one way fail, but a quarter turn right or left prints flawlessly.
I can change what an individual print line looks like to the naked eye just by something as simple as tweaking temperature or print speed. Good luck getting anything remotely consistent intentionally by clever nozzle machining.
Also, nozzles are dead simple to make, it’s literally just a large drill bit (1.75mm diameter or so) with a smaller (.05mm to 1mm) drill poking the last bit through. Tip is slightly flattened off and away it goes.
Also, as someone else said, nozzles are a wear item, it’s like trying to track a car down by the brake pads, or a pencil down by the shape of the lead at the tip, using it changes the characteristics of it.
Any guesses on where to find that info? USB standard info seems to be… challenging to find. Like, I have an easier time navigating and understanding NHTSA or UL standards level of challenging.