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Joined 8 months ago
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Cake day: December 4th, 2024

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  • At that point why not just declare bankruptcy? If he was couch surfing then he had no assets to lose. Sure bankruptcy fucks your credit for a while but it’s better than having nothing and still having your wage garnished. That’s literally the situation that bankruptcy exists for. If you somehow get yourself in a truely irrecoverable amount of debt then it’s your get out of jail relatively free card.








  • It has the same issues as any other permanent punishment in that if somebody is wrongly convicted then it can’t be reversed. Hell, we still execute people we know were wrongly convicted fairly frequently. If this passed then there would definitely be wrongly convicted people getting castrated. Being castrated also doesn’t prevent sex offenders from reoffending. The lack of sex hormones would reduce sex drive but for most offenders it’s less about the sex and more about control. Also if a reduction in sex drive is the goal then there are chemical means to acheive that (which still don’t actually stop sex offenders).

    So you would just wind up castrating a few innocent people while still making no difference in the actual offenders ability to reoffend.

    Unless we can know with absolute 100% certainty that the accused is guilty then the best thing to do with people who are convicted of henious crimes like that is to just lock them up. That way they can’t hurt anyone but if new evidence comes out that proves them innocent then they can be released and the damage can still be somewhat remedied.

    Even if we somehow could know with absolute 100% cetainty that they were guilty (I’m not sure how that would even be possible) castration still wouldn’t make sense because it still leaves them the chance to reoffend. IMO if we lived in a magical world where absolute truth could be known by all then rapists should just be killed because the risk of a rapist reoffending outweighs the worth of a rapist and nothing else will actually ensure they won’t reoffend.


  • What kind of system is it? Is it a central system where there is one coil with ducts going to each room or is it a split system with a seperate AC in each room?

    As far as cleaning it goes, normally I advise only having it professionally done because the chemicals used can damage things if used incorrectly but when it comes to the indoor coil that is less of an issue as the chemicals involved in cleaning that are much more mild. The biggest issue you’ll have is getting access to the coil itself depending on what kind of system you have.

    A cleaning shouldn’t be horribly expensive to have done professionally if you want to go that route. I’m a commercial refrigeration mechanic so my prices are much higher than most residential HVAC contractors. A coil cleaning and system checkup on a regular central air style system would typically cost one of my customers about $300. But like I said, that’s commercial pricing. A residential contractor should be cheaper. I would recommend having it done professionally because while they’re in there the service tech should also be doing a quick check of other components to catch any major problems before they happen.

    But if that isn’t in the budget right now and you do want to do it yourself, basically the process to clean an indoor coil is just -

    1. Shut down the unit. If this is a central system then that means shutting off your airhandler or furnace. On a split system it means shutting off power to that indoor unit usually via the breaker panel. Use a non contact voltage detector (like $10 at any hardware store) to verify that the system has no power going to it before proceding.

    2. Get access to the coil. If you’re lucky then this just means taking off an access panel on your air handler, if you’re not then this mean pulling apart a section of duct or disassembling a split system head unit. This is usually the hardest step. Pay attention to how you’re pulling everything apart to ensure you can put it back togeather again.

    3. Remove as much physical debris from the coil by hand as possible. Do not bend the fins or use any metal tools. You can use a coil cleaning brush or other long soft bristled brush to brush out the coil if need. Most of the debris however will becin the condensate pan under the coil and can just be removed with a shopvac.

    4. Spray down the coil with a coil cleaning spray. I frequently use Nu-Calgon Evap Foam No Rinse (lookup part number 4171-75). It comes in an can and you just shake it up and spray down the coil. The goal is to use the pressure of the can to spray in between the fins of the coil where it will foam up and push debris out of the coil. This stuff will also kill anything growing on the coil. Once applied you don’t need to rinse it off because it’s designed to be rinsed off just by the condensation that builds up on the coil when the system runs. This cleaner shouldn’t hurt your skin or any surfaces but I highly recommend eye protection because it can spatter a bit while spraying it.

    5. Put everything back together and run the system. If the smell was coming from the coil then it should begin to get better. It may take a day for the condensate to fully rinse the cleaner off the coil though so give it time.

    As far as preventing this problem in the future the best thing to do is to keep up on your filter changes and ensure that you are using the correct filters. Another thing that can be done is you can have a UVC bulb installed in the duct by the coil to regularly sterilize it and prevent anything from growing on it. However that really really should only be done by a professional because UVC lights are no joke and can cause severe damage to eyes, skin, and surfaces.